Tim Hurtig, in Sweden mostly known for his yellow AMC Pacer competing in Streetweek.
He does however have a life beyond that. He just got his hands on a Chevy Nova,
a real race car. More or less.

The front end had an accident in the garage at the previous owner so it needed some repairs.
Tim didnt feel comfortable doing the repairs himself and while transporting it to me,
he ordered some modifications while he were at it.

I cant exactly see how the previous owner fastened the hood, but honestly thats not my business.
The hood made in fibre glass had a L88 scoop fastened and it wasnt sweet...
It weighted 13kg and was still soft and wobbling.
Tim ordered a carbon fibre copy of the hood and some flanges around the front
to fasten the hood with dzus locks. Like normal race cars.

Step one was to prepare the hood for making a mould.
Loads of tape and aluminium to make flanges.
Sometimes I get moulds already done to cast in, and they have no flanges...
Even though I always envelope bag my carbon fibre casts, it still is a big problem when the mould lack flanges.
I always want a flange to rest the carbon outside the critical areas.

I was a bit worried about the release properties from the original part as it was painted matt grey,
but there were no problems at all. I made the mould in fibre glass and polyester.
After it cured I added joint foam, let that cure and then added more fibre glass and polyester for reinforcement.

I always make my moulds with white gelcoat. Its cheapest but most important
I can see very clear what Im doing when adding carbon fibre in it.

Carbon fibre.
When I make a hood or some other big parts I have a two stage table.
One higher where I cut and keep the fibres and a lower where I have the mould.
Then I slide the carbon down into the mould with as little disturbance in the pattern as possible.


All layers of carbon in the mould its time to add all consumables and hit the vacuum.
The epoxy I use cures in room temperature which is pretty handy.

30 hours later all consumables can be removed. I added a band of devinycell around the entire hood,
put more carbon and peelply around it and added vacuum again. 30 hours after that all consumables
again could be removed and the hood was ready for demould.


From 13kg to 3,2kg. Pretty good weight saver.


Beyond the actual repair, Tim wanted a copy of the bumper attached upside down below the original.
I have heard thats a pretty common mod to lower the front end without having a poorly matched splitter.
Step one was to make moulds. Just as with the hood, big flanges makes life allot easier.
The edges of the bumper went inwards so I had to make a two piece mould for it.


A two piece mould is handy in many ways. If made right.
Some obvious putty and grinding was needed but not much.
The lower copy shouldn't have any holes in it like the original except for the registration plate,
but I made that hole "live" in the final part.

The front will get a new color after Im finished with it
but it felt convenient to make the copy of the bumper with orange gelcoat.
After some grinding I screwed the copy in place, glued the edges and laminated it in place
from the inside. At first I was a bit concerned over its stability but after the polyester had cured
Im sure it will hold on to speeds above 300kmh. No problems.


The hood flanges.
With the stock fibre glass hood this would not be a good idea, for sure,
but with my carbon hood this was going to be awesome. I simply taped the hood where I wanted it to be,
put the front on its nose, protected the inside of the hood and laminated flanges with fibre glass.


Some cutting, grinding and extra glue I got a flange around the entire front
swallowing and matching the exact shape of the hood. The numbers and position of dzus locks
is ut to the owner to decide. As long as he adds more than three points it will work.
What looks like damages of the paint is just glue from my tape filled with grinding dust.
If Tim chooses to keep the paint it will be okay.







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